Another adventure awaits!

I had started this blog two years ago it seems and though it was temporarily abandoned I still find myself living the nomadic existence that motivated its creation.
I am soon moving to France again. This time the south but first I must defend my thesis. The saga of my thesis accounts for one of the reasons I have not written a post in a long time! Stay tuned for updates on the various steps involved in prepping, both physically and emotionally for such a move!

So here I am at the end of 3 weeks.

OK, so there are a couple of days left. It seriously did go by fast. How disappointing, yet completely expected. If I weren't guaranteed to come back in 6 months I'd leave here kicking and screaming! Instead I shall be mature and face this like an adult who understands that even good things must come to an end. I think I'm going to miss this view the most when I'll be stuck in Dey Hall for hours on end studying for my comps and preparing my thesis! I'm back in the foyer library with a view of most of Paris' famous landmarks. Note to self: make an effort to find a better place to work back on campus! I ate at one of the university canteens yesterday. It was surprisingly good and made me think seriously about a PhD here. Looks like I can fall hard and easy for a city. I've been here before but it never affected me like this. Maybe like any solid relationship timing is the key.

Before I begin to wax nostalgic about this place without even having left it, I should point out the serious issues I still have with this city. As convenient as the metro is it still smells of funky odors at times akin to urine. And speaking of urine try to find a reasonably, and I mean reasonably, not super or even very, just reasonably clean toilet with enough room for me to go into, turn around and close the door without practically walking into the bowl which of course is often covered with urine and while you're at it, find one that also has oh I don't know, maybe a hook for, oh, say a purse or coat. It's near impossible. Even on one of the chicest streets in the world, the Champs-Élysée not a chance in l'enfer! If you noticed I was also wondering about a place for my coat. That's right, it is coat weather in June here in Paris. Très triste. As one watches the sky at the grey clouds moving in, trying to guess when the next downpour will begin they may be in for yet a greater surprise; "look down fool! Fido has left a little steaming present on the pavement for you!" Leave the Manolos at home ladies ... Luckily this has not actually happened to me yet but there were a few close calls.

Somehow despite all these trespasses I forgive my new lover because she is charming, confident, inspiring, enigmatic, chic and alluring. Yes, Paris is a she and I'm referring to her as my lover. I had already started the first analogy without considering the sex of this city and I'm sorry but she's too awesome and pretty to be a boy! Let the comments begin! I can already see many arguments for Paris as male especially from a Geo-political perspective so please feel free to debate this point. Maybe she swings both ways! I guess when it comes to cities so do I ;)

Once I can upload photos I will! You know, to help with the debate!
À la prochaine!

fête de la musique vs. fête du cinéma

So far the clear winner is fête du cinéma. I believe it is because FDC is spread out over 3 days while FDLM is just a few hours. There was way too much to see in a short amount of time and too many crowds of drunk and obnoxious people at FDLM. That does not include the company I was with. I ended up checking out the scene with 2 students and a French girl from the Foyer. She took us to meet her very cool and really nice Parisian friends. I thought, bonus, These guys must also know how to do this fest right. Turns out just as lost and confused as the rest of us. At least we started at a decent time. The trick with FDLM is to start early. Most nights in Paris the party wouldn't dream of starting before midnight but not on this night it seems. I think that's what the American students were thinking when they continued to pre-game on the rooftop terrace until at least 10pm. I had warned everyone ... The annoying thing for me is that I did my research and had a plan but what's a plan with no one to follow? So I went with the flow. It's not a bad plan just one that leaves you feeling like you missed a lot of great acts. I must say though that wandering the beautiful Paris streets while the sun is setting (it was the summer solstice so it set around 10:15) was pretty cool. We were mostly around the 4th arr. called le marais. Once the neighbourhood of the nobility, now a very hip area full of artists and a strong gay community.

We caught most of the busking action which is pretty cool in and of itself. Everywhere you go there is music and dancing in the streets and yes the image of Mick Jagger and David Bowie in horrible 80's rock frocks just popped in my head too. So not what I had hoped but probably, had I had no expectations, would have been great.

As for the FDC so far really surpassing my expectations. I've seen 5 films already, all French and all great. I even saw Sophie Marceau's latest flick that she wrote, produced and starred in and was very impressed. It also stars Christophe Lambert (remember him from Highlander there can be only one!) I'm not his biggest fan but he was well cast I think. It was a thriller and I found that at times suspense was lost. They don't have North American distribution yet but they hope to. Maybe it'll be re-cut for that and help the speed. The nice surprise was that some of the producers showed up at the screening. A surprise because these things aren't often announced. It isn't your average movie fest. Almost all the cinemas participate and it is their regular scheduled stuff that you can see for 2 euros a pop after you've paid full price for the first one. It runs for three days and started Sunday so I gotta go get more movies in and finish my work so I can watch them worry free! By the way, I've seen and recommend: "Fragile(s)", "Moliere" (Starring Romain Duris in the title role), "Le Defi: the story of La Fountaine" (saw this right after Moliere and these 2 were friends and even their resting place in Père Lachaise is side by side), "La Disparue de Deauville" the Sophie Marceau flick and "Esemble, c'est tout!" starring Audrey Tautou, my new favorite in the romance department.

Here's a link to the Bande d'annonce:
Esemble c'est tout

But I think it might be a spoiler! Though who knows when it'll be released in your home town? Not that I've even looked into it!

Canadian Pubs, Gregorian Chanting and Molière!

What do these things have in common? My first week in Paris, that's what! But how did I end up in a Canadian Pub in Paris? I blame the name. It is called "The Great Canadian Pub" and it is located in the 5th arrondissement, near the Sorbonne and Notre Dame Cathedral where I live. Also known as the Latin Quarter. It was my first full day. I went to work in the morning at the study abroad office and got done by the afternoon. I was then set free to discover my new neighbourhood (I'm spelling à la canadienne/anglaise 'cause it just looks nicer, and 'cause darn it I am Canadian!). During my stroll I had thought to myself that maybe I should keep my eyes open for a pub. It's been my "go to" in the past. Whenever I'm in a new city I head for the pub (usually Irish) 'cause I always seem to make friends there. After taking care of lodging and food, making friends is generally my next priority. To my surprise, I didn't come across any but then, suddenly there it was: The Great Canadian Pub! I thought: "hunh? what's a "Great Canadian Pub? ... And if it is THE great one, what's it doing in Paris?" Of course I had to stop in. They had, as suspected a bunch of Hockey paraphernalia. I started chatting to the waitress straight away and she told me that the owners were in fact Canadians living in Paris, one from Montreal and the other from Ottawa and they wanted to have a place to watch their Hockey. That explained the predominantly Habs and Sens stuff. There was one tiny figurine of Mats Sundin behind the bar, Go Leafs! Though there was some Molson Canadian, Moosehead and Poutine for 8 euros, I opted for just a glass of Cranberry juice. I was too jet lagged for the other stuff anyway. And then it happened, my first friend. A fellow Canadian, Ontarian and currently living in Toronto fella named ... hang on, I'll leave names out, I'll just call him Bob! Anyway, turns out he is in town with the circus. That's right the circus, Canada's most famous one. One of the productions is in town and he works behind the scenes, so no, I did not meet a contortionist, though that would have been cool too. After exchanging stories and reminiscing about Canadian snow (the waitress from Saskatchewan had the best story go figure) I was on my way, but not without getting a possible invite to a show. Fingers still crossed!
The following day I met a fellow graduate student (FGS) from the University of Illinois program who has been here since February and she agreed to show me around and teach me the ropes. We took a stroll down to Notre Dame when she told me about the amazing Gregorian chants she attended in the Cathedral. At this point I'm still pinching myself that I'm even in Paris, taking casual strolls through Parc du Luxembourg, walking past the Pantheon and well, just countless historic sites, so hearing chants in Notre Dame probably would have just knocked me on my ---! We looked up the schedule but the only thing they had that night was the Sacred Choir doing louanges. No idea what that was but it had to be good too. It was, and being in that space, listening to those sounds ... let's face it, I don't have the words. Just check it out the next time you're in town ;) I must add that it was almost ruined by people who brought their kids, who couldn't possibly have any appreciation for it and it showed as they wouldn't shut up and kept running up and down the nave. One of them was even carrying a change purse ... clang, clang, clang over the angelic music!!! What is the matter with people. I have nothing against young children of course just don't take them to, oh I don't know, classical music concerts, the opera, the ballet... until you know they can stay still and quiet! They left about halfway through, thank goodness. I mean I'm all for exposing young minds to the arts and culture but know when and prepare them for it, they looked like they had no idea where they were and why they were there.
The Final surprise of the week was a ticket to the Misanthrope, by Molière at La Comédie Française. Again the FGS from Illinois hooked me up with it, though I paid for the ticket. It was a great space but I wasn't all too convinced with some of the artistic choices made. The actors did their best and were committed to the material but I think the production overall was weak. Le Monde does a great review : Le Monde.com
I wish I could see the following production of "Le malade imaginaire". Many people say that Molière died while playing the main role, but apparently that wasn't the case. I believe he got really ill while performing and shortly after the performance died in his home. Dying on stage makes for a better story though. Speaking of stories that is enough for now. Just going to sit back and watch the shimmering Eiffel tower and then head to mon lit. Bonne Nuit!

Le Foyer International des Etudiantes

So how did I end up in a dorm at 29? I managed to avoid them my whole college career and now ... well, actually, it's not so bad. I've never been a fan of communal living and so have always opted for apartment style student residences, but in this case living in the "foyer" is ideal. It's more than ideal if that is even possible. First, it is convenient. I work in the office for the study abroad program and it is just one floor below my room. I just roll out of bed and make my way down. Also, I didn't know anyone in the city and so from a social standpoint it's great. Always someone around to chat with. Proximity to the students is also a plus. For one they are a super bunch of people and two, part of my job is to be available to help out with their studies, which this certainly allows me to do. With only three weeks here my only other option would have been some kind of youth hostel. That's just communal living squared. Here, I have my own very clean room with a very clean set of sheets. My room also has it's own sink area and so I only need to venture down the hall for the toilet and the showers. OK, so the showers are a little tricky. The water pressure is amazing and it looks clean but they are co-ed! That's right "les douches sont mixtes"!



But hey, I deal. There is a little fridge in the room to keep some amazing French milk products. Why are they so much better here? Are their cows happier?
> I just had to pause to stare out of the window in the library (also located inside the Foyer) to watch the twinkling lights of the Eiffel tower. That is my view from here! Crazy but true! <
So back to how great this Foyer is. Despite the curfew of 1:30am to 6am Sunday - Thursday and the quiet hours after 11pm this place is the best place I've ever stayed in in Paris.

Have a look at the view from the rooftop terrace:



And well here is the website for more details:

FIE

All in all, I'm thrilled with my living conditions. I was so worried prior to arriving because I hadn't heard good things about French dorms in general but this place is "genial"! In the summer rooms are available for backpackers and I highly recommend it!

First things first - How is it that I'm in Paris?

It all started about a dozen days ago, give or take. There I was planning my fifth night of pool playing in a row when I got an intriguing e-mail entitled: GTA Paris needed. I was concerned. I thought I already was a GTA (Graduate Teaching Assistant) for the UNC Paris study abroad, set to leave in January of 2008. Then, for a brief moment: relief! What they needed was a replacement this summer. The current GTA could no longer complete the program and so they were "looking for a qualified GTA who is able to fly to Paris within the next few days and serve for the remainder of the program until the end of June." I had just woken up and at this point wasn't sure if the anemia experienced in the few days prior to this message was making me a little loopy! Was I really being offered a trip to Paris? I called to verify and before I knew what I was doing I was submitting my candidacy. As I hung up the phone I started to realize what I had done. It was a Wednesday and I had offered to drop my current summer plans in order be on a plane for Paris by that Saturday. Not that things were too exciting in good ol' Chapel Hill but I was really starting to enjoy my lazy summer. But hey, who says "no" to an all expenses paid trip to Paris in June? There was another candidate but somehow I knew, it would be me. Not because I felt any kind of claim to it but rather because suddenly I felt a great deal of fear about it. The universe always has a way of making me face my fears. That's right, leaving on such short notice with almost no time to prepare terrified me. Me! The supposed traveler. I live for this kind of stuff right? The knots in my stomach however made me think otherwise. I was informed that the decision would be made within the next 24 hours. A whole day in limbo. Great. I was panicked as I felt I should be preparing just in case, yet didn't want to get ready to go only to find out there was no place to go to. Stressed and feeling overwhelmed, I did what any sane person would do, I went to play some pool!

That evening I had my first panic attack. Trembling uncontrollably at the myriad of thoughts and emotions. I was sure that I would forget something. Also was my summer that empty that I could just up and leave? This made me even more certain that it would be me and the call I received the following morning on Thursday finally confirmed it. I booked my flights within the next few hours, allowing 10 days of travel at the end of the program. Fastest booking in my life. I, who dreads decision making, was forced into a speedy one. All I had left to do was pack and get myself to the airport in 2 days.

Procrastination being my preferred method of packing I arrived rather late to the airport. This turned out to be a good thing as I had to run to the gate, which helped to rid me of my final nerves. Alright, so here is my confession: the truth of the matter is most of my nerves stemmed from a newly developed fear of flying. Well, more like a fear of panic attacks in flight. It happened to me once and ever since I've been extremely concerned. Those who know me well will understand how horrible it is for me to be a nervous flyer. Given how international my family and friends base is and how much I like to travel, not being able to fly would be a nightmare. Being that avoiding flight in my life is just not an option the thought has had me feeling pretty lousy for quite a while. Fear or no fear there I was boarding the flight. I got into the small commuter plane going to Philly from Raleigh for my connecting flight and something amazing happened. I remembered how much I love to fly. I love being up there in the air, watching the clouds (which I've realized recently that I am obsessed with) and letting people bring me drinks and food as I sit back and relax. In this fast paced existence those moments of truly nothing to do and no responsibilities are few and far between. Also I noticed there are plenty of other nervous flyers who are all too eager to chat with perfect strangers to make the time go by. Before I knew it we were landing and I had arrived in Gay Paris! One quick ride on the RER and I was at the Luxembourg where I would be staying. Next stop: Foyer International des Etudiantes!